Category Archives: Utah

Travels to Hells Gate State Park, Idaho

GILA BEND, AZ; NEEDLES, CA; ST. GEORGE, UT

Our first two stops after leaving Kartchner Caverns were Gila Bend and Needles. Both of these RV parks are familiar to us and have been frequent stops coming and going from Arizona. Our one-night stays there were happily uneventful.

We spent two nights in St. George, Utah at Hurricane KOA. KOAs are usually easy for us – close to the highway we are traveling on, usually pull-thrus so we don’t have to unhitch our toad and have stores and laundries if we need them. This one was a little odd. At check in we were told we had to unhitch because it would be too tight to pull into our site while pulling our car. That was true. The sites were barely long enough, and our car had to be parked diagonally in front of the RV. With our four slides out we were very close to our tiny neighbors in their R-Pod. And these were “buddy” sites – our door faced our neighbor on the other side. They were nice people but it’s not always a comfortable set-up.

We happened to be there during the International Ironman Competition in nearby St. George which presented a massive traffic problem so on our second day we just relaxed until later in the day when we drove into Hurricane (pronounced “Hurricun”) to explore. We visited the small but very interesting Pioneer Museum and talked to the friendly docent there. We learned about the history of the Hurricane Canal which made the city possible. It took a daunting 50 years to hand dig the canal. It doesn’t exist now because of an earthquake. This is the kind of tourist stop we enjoy – local history and strange artifacts. I even got to see two dolls that I loved – Honey Baby and a pretty Ginny doll. We added a stop for a Mother’s Day dinner at Mekong Kitchen for great Thai food (Red Curry for Doug and Spicey Drunken Noodles for me). We ended our day stopping for essentials at Walmart.

As with the rest of Utah, St. George and the other smaller cities near there are spotlessly clean, beautifully landscaped and, of course, have the advantage of spectacular red mountains in the background.

FILLMORE, UT

We left early to get ahead of the wind on Sunday, May 8th. The drive was short and easy with a short rest stop to stretch our legs. The owner at this perfectly manicured KOA was nice enough to not charge us for an early check in. The cottonwood trees were barely moving in the gentle cool breeze when we arrived. We had time for a nap after lunch, some phone calls from the kids and then the wind hit. The gusts are ferociously moving the cottonwoods and making lots of noise. We are facing in a good direction, so we haven’t had to bring in our slides or worry too much. Hopefully, things will quiet down before we leave tomorrow for our last stop in Utah.

Well, the wind shifted directions and one of the cottonwood branches started hitting our slide, so we brought that one in. A little cozier but still our comfy home. Then the rain came and lasted most of the night. And it got cold! We woke up to snow on the nearby Cedar Mountains.

Just a short ride today but we have to figure out the logistics of leaving at check out – 11 am and arriving at the State Park at check in – 3 pm when we don’t have far to go.

WILLARD BAY STATE PARK

This is such a pretty park. Each site is huge with its own covered ramada over the picnic table. We got here just a few minutes early and drove right to our site. Still haven’t met the hosts. It’s really chilly here – and overcast.

The drive today was beautiful. For many miles we drove along the San Pitch Mountains in the Wasatch Range. The largest and highest spot is Salt Creek Peak. Our highway alternated by aiming right at it or positioned this magnificent peak just to our right. The Wasatch were covered with snow and sparkling in the sun. We even had a few snowflakes hit our windshield.

Those flakes were pleasant unlike the aluminum cans that were flying out of an un-tarped recycling truck ahead of us. A flying can hitting our rig sounded like a gun shot. Hope it didn’t live a dent!

Safely and warmly tucked away in this quiet park for our last night in Utah.

The beach at Willard Bay

TWIN FALLS, IDAHO

We have made numerous visits to Twin Falls and love it here. Our past blogs relate some of our Twin Falls adventures. The Perrine Memorial Bridge gave us a look at those brave souls who jump and parachute into the river. The waterfalls are spectacular: Twin Falls, of course, and Shoshone Falls, deemed to be the “most dazzling waterfall in the state.”  There are also the Perrine Coulee Falls.

Looking into the Snake River Canyon explains why I have so many photos of it. This steep canyon with its winding green river is famous with stunning views. Anyone remember Evel Knievel?

I had a strange adventure doing the laundry. I was happy to see a spotlessly clean laundry room. Everything was shiny and bright but there was a small puddle on the floor around the drain. It was a narrow room, but I easily skirted the puddle and took two of the 4 washers to do my clothes. I sat outside reading and when I went back in the puddle was a bit larger.  I put my clean clothes into two large dryers and left to go back to the RV. Upon returning, the puddle was considerably larger but not near my dryers. I put my dry clothes from the top dryer on the immaculate stainless steel folding table. I went to get the second load and that dryer was icy cold and the clothes were wet. I transferred them to a different dryer but that one refused to let me put quarters in. So, I went back to the good dryer and used that one again.

Another woman came in with 4 loads of laundry. I directed her to watch out for the growing puddle, showed her the two dryers that were malfunctioning and left to report the problems to the office.

As I started folding my clothes, a manager came in – she was surprised that the washer that seemed to be leaking was the one marked “out of order”. She opened the front door – out gushed an entire tub of water. The flow hit the opposite wall.  I had just moved two steps in the right direction so only a few drops hit my legs but now the floor had about 2 inches of water and the drain was obviously not working. The other woman was trapped but dry on the other side of the puddle.

This manager was asking me about the dryer problems when another manager came in the back door with a string mop and bucket – so inadequate for this mess! The first manager had her back turned talking to me and trying to mess with the bad dryers when the second manager opens the broken washer and another onslaught of water rushes out. He got soaked.

My clothes are still dry on the table, so I get my first load out of there and back to the RV. When I returned for the second load in the dryer, the water is now rippling along the floor in little waves.

In spite of the problems, both managers exhibited excellent customer service – helping us get our clothes out without the clothes or us getting wet. They managed to disconnect the evil washer (finally!) and were valiantly attempting to soak up gallons of water with the pathetic mop.

I left with clean dry clothes, and I guess that’s all I can ask for. But it certainly was not the usual time in the laundry.

CALDWELL, IDAHO

Just a one night stay at the perfectly manicured Ambassador RV Park. We’ve been there before also, and it proved to be an easy site to shelter in during the evening’s rain.

PENDLETON, OREGON

We have driven through Pendleton, but never explored it. With a 3 night stay we had a little time to check it out. Pendleton is famous for its Wool Mill, producing beautiful wool blankets with Native American motifs, and the Pendleton Round-Up – one of the best- known rodeos in North America. We weren’t there for Round-Up days and the Mill was closed for tours.

We found an even better place to check out – the Museum at Tamastslikt Cultural Institute. The main exhibits take you through 10,000 years of native culture. The Cayuse, Umatilla and Walla Walla tribes have a rich history in this area and are currently thriving with agricultural and casino enterprises.

The temporary exhibit was my favorite. Native women re-created their childhoods, their traumas, their dreams using mixed media inside antique metal doll houses. Each display takes you into the mind and heart of the creator and by using the iconic houses of our youth, they etched their histories in small, contained rooms that exposed their souls. It was eerie, real and touching. One house, done in mostly white designs, showed the devastation diabetes has had on tribal lives. The structures in the house were all done with sugar crystals – the stark and sharp evidence of this deadly disease. Other houses had many small beds representing the awful history of the Indian Training Schools where young Natives were sent to learn English and American ways but were indoctrinated in ways that were intended to destroy their culture. An eye-opening experience for us. It was the last day of that exhibit, and we are grateful to have had the luck to see it.,

Artwork outside Tamastslikt

We stayed the extra day here to avoid the rain, thunder and wind that had been forecast. This meant that we arrived a day late to our new job but our supervisor, Jeff, agreed that it was better to arrive safely.

HELLS GATE STATE PARK, LEWISTON, IDAHO

So, on Monday, May 16th we got to Hells Gate State Park. We met up with Jeff at the Discovery Center. He has given us carte blanche to develop our own interpretive programs. He gave us a broad outline of expectations and offered his support and the support of the staff and other volunteers. We have a few programs already done, but we have to re-design them a bit to work here. It’s a challenge that I think we are up to.

Swallow’s Nest Rock across the Snake River from Hells Gate State Park

After dinner our first night, we took advantage of the late-setting sun here and strolled along the Snake River path. It’s about a half mile walk from out site in the Volunteer Village to the Discovery Center and depending on what we do with our programming, that might be a nice commute. We will spend the next few days getting acquainted with this beautiful park and the people we will be spending our summer with.

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Filed under Arizona, California, Idaho, Nevada, Oregon, Utah

Utah – The Beehive State

We had visited Utah while camping in our tent trailer with Amy and Julie, but this is the first time on our RV that we have been in this state. That makes Utah our 42nd state!  Wow!  Look at our sticker map – this last year has really filled in many new states for us.

42 states and counting!

Once we crossed the border into Utah, we were driving with the Wasatch Mountains on our left and then the Great Salt Lake on our right.  It was a pleasant drive – not much traffic and good weather.  What more could we ask for?

OGDEN – SALT LAKE CITY

We arrived at the Century Mobile RV Park in Ogden.  The sites are clean and neat but narrow.  Ours was plenty long enough.  We heard the train as soon as we got there so we felt right at home.  Our last stop in Idaho was very, very close to a very, very busy railroad line.  I find the sound of a train, with the rumbling and whistling, very romantic.  When I hear a train, I know I’m on the road somewhere.

We drove into Salt Lake City on Friday, September 13th.  We had visited this beautiful city over 15 years ago and we were looking forward to seeing it again.  This trip we went straight to the State Capitol Building to add it to our growing list of Capitols Visited.  We took the guided tour with visitors from New Zealand, New York, Germany, and Missouri.  Our guide was great, with lots of stories of his own to add to his detailed knowledge of the building and Utah history.

Utah Capitol

The building is beautiful – with genuine marble columns, stairways and walls.  Most interesting were the painted murals depicting the unique and diverse history of this state.  We learned that the Capitol, like the rest of Salt Lake City, is on the third largest fault line in the country.  The original building was retrofitted to mitigate for a 7.5 earthquake.  The changes included adding giant slinky coils in the basic structure and installing a moat – yes, a moat – that is now covered. 

The Rotunda

We also learned that a few years ago, the United States Government decided to send a replica of the Liberty Bell to each state capitol building.  In Boise, the Bell was outside the building on the walkway and in Salt Lake City, the Bell is inside in the main hall.  It will be interesting to see these Bells in other Capitol Buildings.

The Governor’s office

We decided to walk down the long, steep hill to Temple Square. First, we stopped at Jimmy Johns for a big sandwich and drink.  Fortified, we walked all over Temple Square and explored the beautiful buildings and gardens.  Not being Mormon, we did not enter the Temple, but all the other buildings are open to the public and have inspiring displays.  We took some quiet time for prayer and contemplation in front of a 16-foot statue of Jesus.

Mormon Temple
The angel Moroni on top of the temple

Then we had to walk UP the long, steep hill back to where we parked at the Capitol Building.  I was panting, but the temperature was not too hot with a slight breeze, so it wasn’t too uncomfortable.  All in all, a beautiful day!

ANTELOPE ISLAND

Antelope Island was our next adventure.  This is the largest island in the Great Salt Lake, which is the largest lake west of the Mississippi River.  We drove over the causeway and stopped at the Visitor Center.  Just below us on the sage-filled plain was a bison.  In 1893, twelve bison were introduced to the island and today there is a herd of several hundred.  Other mammals on the island include coyotes, badgers, porcupines and many birds.  We read the displays to learn more about the geological events which caused this remarkable landscape and the life forms that populate it.

The causeway to Antelope Island

The burgers (veggie and beef) and fries at Buffalo Island Grill were great and a necessary fuel for the long mile walk on the sandy beach to put our feet into the Great Salt Lake.  The weather was just right, and the water was warm.  We waded into the salty expanse and felt the briny fish enjoying their habitat.  It was a first for me – the first time touching the saline water of this beautiful lake.

Our feet are in the Great Salt Lake!

We took a day off from being tourists and did some mundane tasks – cleaning and cooking, etc.  We love to explore and look forward to seeing the new things that lurk around every corner of this big amazing country, but we also love our RV home and taking care of it and us is part of the journey.

BEAVER

On Monday, September 16th, we left Ogden for Beaver KOA.  Beaver will be our home base to take day trips to one of the most beautiful National Parks this country has to offer.  We stayed at the Beaver KOA.  We have a site with a paver patio, and we hope we get some use out of it.  Our first day in Beaver was too windy to hang out outside.  In fact, the high winds were a bit of a problem all day.  We got up very early, before 6 am, and hustled to get on the road before the winds got worse.  It was a long drive, with no rest stops and gusting winds.  That’s hard on Doug.  But he got us to Beaver safely and I’m grateful for that.

BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK

Driving to Bryce Canyon gave us a chance to follow the Old Spanish Trail for part of the ride.  This trail was a major trade route for the Spanish in the late 16th Century.  The route goes from New Mexico to California (or at least it was supposed to go that way).  History, mountains, deserts and some battles created an arduous journey.  Today the road is Highway 89.  The scenery is spruce-covered hills, sage-covered dales sprinkled with cattle and smelling occasionally like skunk.  I have spent countless hours sitting in the passenger seat straining my eyes for elk.  The signs on the roadways warned of this majestic animal and this ride still showed me none.

The little town of Panguitch, originally founded by Mormon pioneers, is quaint with hitching posts and plenty of shops and restaurants for tourists.  Other than Panquitch, there is not much else along this road in the way of food or drink.

We turned onto Scenic Byway 12, the All American Road, and passed through another small town, Red Canyon.  Then we entered Dixie National Forest and started to see hoodoos – tall pinkish-red eroded stone walls that send your imagination soaring.  And this was before we even got to Bryce Canyon.  The roadway took us under two picturesque arches and then the landscape was taller fir trees – mostly Ponderosa pine – and less sage brush.  We passed the summit sign:  7777 feet above sea level.

[Just a few days later, a horrible accident occurred on Highway 12 near Panguitch.  A tour bus filled with Chinese Nationalists hit the railing and flipped over, causing some deaths and many injuries.  These people came to America to see the beauty nature created in our country.  Having a vacation take such an awful turn is heart-breaking.  Wherever you travel, especially the National Parks, you notice many Chinese-speaking tourists taking photos and enjoying the hikes and picturesque vistas that we are also enjoying.  Knowing this tragedy happened so close in time and space to us, made it very real for us.  Our thoughts and prayers are with them and their loved ones.] 

The shuttle through the park is necessary these days.  The parking lots are full at all of the stopping points.  We caught the shuttle near a large parking lot outside of the park and got off at the Visitor Center.  Parking was made even harder the day we were there due to construction obliterating one of the parking lots by the Visitor Center.  But the shuttle is convenient and free and easy to use.  Entry into the park is $35 per car but my Senior Pass got us in free.  (Paid $10 for it 4 years ago.  It has saved us hundreds of dollars.  Today it costs $80 – still a great deal!)

Bryce Canyon

We walked over to Sunset Point for a Ranger Walk at 1 pm.  Ranger Pam was well-versed in geology and history and gave us an excellent understanding of the creation of the strange hoodoo shapes as well as a comprehensive picture of the human adventure that took place in this beautiful canyon.

One story we especially liked was the Quilt Walk.  Apparently, the Mormon settlers were looking to supplement their food supply and took off in the dead of winter (Bryce gets about 18 feet of snow a year) and found they were sinking into the snow on their trek.  This became untenable until a woman threw down a quilt over the snow to rest on.  She discovered that she could stand on the quilt without sinking.  By throwing a quilt down on the snow, walking on it, then throwing another quilt down, they were able to tread through the deep snow and accomplished their mission.  To commemorate this feat, a Quilt Walk Festival is celebrated every year.

The Ranger Walk took us over to the Lodge and we ended with a discussion of how Bryce National Park manages today with over two and a half million visitors in one year.   This walk along the rim highlights the hoodoo-filled canyon and makes for the most amazing photos.  As we photographed and looked at the beautiful canyon, we heard visitors’ voices in many languages we could not understand, but we all said the same oohs and aahs as we looked into the wonder of Bryce Canyon.

ZION NATIONAL PARK

We moved our RV into Zion River RV Resort, about 13 miles from Zion National Park.  This is a very busy park and parking is a huge issue there.  We found out that our RV Resort has a shuttle to Zion, so on Friday, September 20th, we took the shuttle to the Zion NP Shuttle.  It cost $7 each but was very worth it. 

One of the many fabulous peaks

Once in the park, we took that shuttle all the way to the last stop, about a 40-minute drive, to the Temple of Sinawava where we did the River Walk Hike.  This was about 1.5-mile paved pathway along the crystal clear Virgin River.  There is much to see as you walk – red cliffs above you and a rippling river below you.  The path was mostly level.  At the end of the trail you reach The Narrows – where the Virgin River cuts through the deep narrow chasm.  We walked over the rocks, avoiding as much water as possible, just to say we hiked into The Narrows.  It just didn’t seem like a good idea to get our shoes and socks wet in that icy water with a whole day of hiking ahead of us.  But the cold water didn’t stop most of our fellow hikers. 

The busy River Walk
The start of the Narrows

We took another shuttle to the Lodge where we picked up the Emerald Pool Trail.  This one is also paved, fairly flat, and also had amazing scenery.  It was just over a mile round trip.  This trail ends in a waterfall that flows from an overhanging cliff, so you walk under the falls.  There were plenty of other hikers on this trail too.  The bright blue sky, pleasant temperature, rippling water, pinkish-red cliffs (and even a deer nibbling by the side of the trail) made for a great hike.  We ate our picnic lunch on a bench with a beautiful view of giant cliffs in front of us.

The waterfall at Emerald Pool

We shuttled back to the Visitor Center/Gift Shop and then walked out of the park to an area of shops, rentals and restaurants.  We grabbed a quick snack from The Happy Campers’ Market and waited for our ride back to our campground.  On the shuttle we talked with other full-time RVers and shared experiences.

You really can’t beat a day like this. 

Our second day at Zion started out early.  We drove our car into the park and found a parking spot at the Visitor Center.  We were scheduled for the Ranger Shuttle Tour.  Ranger Gretchen gave us a great tour.  Her presentations which were done at different shuttle stops covered wildlife, the beauty of the outdoors, geology, culture and history, environmental diversity and recreation at Zion.  The cliffs create an amazing backdrop to the very interesting facts Gretchen gave us.  We visited a cul-de-sac of giant cliffs – Angel’s Landing, the Pipe Organ, the Great White Throne and Cable Mountain.  We were able to see the white scar on the face of Cable Mountain where a huge boulder detached and fell down just a few weeks ago. 

We took a short hike up to Menu Falls – a small trickle through a cliff that is probably the oldest water in the world.  This happens because water takes a long time to filter through the fissures in the Navajo Sandstone of this enormous cliff.  So the water flowing through the falls today, rained down on the top of the cliff centuries ago.  This is one place in the park where this happens.

Menu Falls

There is an old building in the Grotto, originally constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps, that now houses the artists that come annually to reside in the park to create their art.  This year, one of the artists in residence is a ballerina – we saw her practicing on the grass in front of the Lodge.  She dances her interpretation of the nature she is experiencing at Zion.

The shuttle tour followed the Virgin River through the most incredible sights in the park.  It is this river, small and inconspicuous today, that created the gorges through these cliffs.  You can let your imagination wander through eons of time, picturing the energy and power of this river as it cut through the sandstone, century after century, forming the beauty you see before you.

This tour was wonderful – Gretchen’s personality and knowledge was amazing – the perfect accompaniment to the magnificent stage of giant cliffs. 

We hiked a mile or so back to the Human History Museum where we stayed for a ranger talk on geology.  This one was okay – just not as vibrant as Gretchen’s.

Then we took another hike to the Visitor Center.  Over the course of the two days we spent at Zion, we hiked these trails:  Pa’rus, Lower Emerald Pool, Grotto, and Riverside Walk.  You could just drive into Zion and sit on a bench and look up and see the incredible cliffs.  But doing these hikes brings you close to the rocks where you can hear the Virgin River, feel the cool breeze, smell the pines, and especially stretch your neck back to look up, up, up to the tops of those red, pink, gray, and white sculptures that are the iconic views of Zion.

All good things have to come to an end, so we said good-bye to Zion and Utah and on Monday, September 23rd drove to our next stop:  Las Vegas.

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