Category Archives: Nebraska

Colorful Colorado and a Little Bit of Nebraska

COLORFUL COLORADO

We left New Mexico for Colorado on Friday, May 14th.  It wasn’t long before we saw a glimpse of the Rockies.  Another mountain range to enjoy but this one much taller and peaking through behind the foothills were the snow-covered mountaintops. 

LEARNING HISTORY ALONG THE ROAD

We passed a sign for the Ludlow Massacre which prompted me to look into it.  Not a good time for coal miners who were striking because of poor labor conditions during the Colorado Coalfield War in April of 1914.  The Colorado National Guard attacked men, women and children in a tent camp.  Twenty-one people were killed, including wives and children.  It was thought that the attack on the strikers was orchestrated by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. who was a part owner of the Colorado Fuel and Iron Company.  It was President Woodrow Wilson who ordered the federal soldiers to intervene.  As a result of Congress investigating these events, the House Committee on Mines and Mining wrote a report that influenced the child labor laws and the 8-hour workday.  The site is now a ghost town with a nationally recognized monument to those who died in the massacre.

We didn’t take the turn off to the Scenic Highway of Legends on State Highway 12.  Someday we should wander through that part of the Rocky Mountains.  Our friends, Jayne and Paul are working in La Veta and it just seemed a shame to get so close to them and not stop.  But we wanted to get to our next stay in Colorado Springs KOA early enough to do some food shopping.  So, we waved virtually to our friends and will keep in touch this summer.

Along a long stretch of Highway I 25 we saw some random objects that caught our attention.  We are appreciative of these bits of folk art or whatever they are as they break up some of the monotony of the highway.  There were the words “God is Real” painted on the back of a metal sign with a happy face on one side and a heart on the other side.  Following that we saw a metal sculpture of a turtle and, in the field with no apparent plan, several US flags flying on poles.  The strangest sight was an art gallery the size of a shed that was very close to the highway but had no other access road to it.  A pretty herd of deer scampered along, and a few cattle grazed in the grass.  This happened over miles and miles of grassland.  Three wind turbines quietly captured a bit of a breeze.  And then at a place that sold landscaping rocks, we saw a mini Stonehenge.  All of this with enormous Pike’s Peak peeking out of the surrounding mountains.

It was a beautiful ride through this beautiful state. 

Our campsite in this destination KOA park has a real patio, with a table and four chairs, a bench and a small Blue Spruce tree.  After getting some food shopping done and finally filling our depleted supplies, we brought back some Burger King because we still have to fix the damaged propane hose, making cooking difficult.

We took advantage of the pretty patio and sat outside as the clouds that were threatening rain gave way to the sun.  Our neighbors in the large Kamping Kabins have lots of loud children so we sat outside listening to their voices and missing our own noisy grandchildren.

CAVE OF THE WINDS

We have decided to add to our Cave knowledge by visiting as many new caves as we can on this trip.  Our first was Cave of the Winds in Colorado Springs.  This cave was discovered in 1880 by two brothers, John and George Pickett.  They were exploring near a limestone archway and while there, their candles went out because of a small wind coming from within a cave. They thought it was haunted, but their tale brought other people into the tiny entrance.  Others opened up more passageways until we have the current cave expanse, making it a worthwhile tour.  We would never have entered through the tiny opening on our bellies and climbed down the still hanging rope ladder.

Original Cave Entry Openings

Our car climbed the long and winding Canyon Rim Road up to the Cave.  We took the Discovery Tour – which is very popular.  Fifteen people every 10 minutes go on this 45 minute tour.  They also have a Lantern Tour which lasts for 90 minutes and seems like much more of a caving adventure.

Cave of the Winds is quite an operation – a huge gift shop, cafeteria, viewing areas and rides for the young and old daredevils – rock climbing, a 600-foot-above-ground Challenge Course, a Terror-Dactyl ride that shoots you across a 200-foot canyon at about 100 miles per hour with your legs dangling.  There were tamer things to do like panning for minerals or sitting on the patio admiring the spectacular view of the gorge (our choice)

The Discovery Tour through the cave was plenty exciting for us.  There were about 100 steps, some of them very narrow with low hanging rocks above you.  The floor was often uneven but there were some handrails (called stalagpipes, ha ha).  The path was winding and narrow and took you through many small rooms with many twists and turns.  The mantra was “Right is right; left is lost.”  Until you made a left turn at the very end.

The tour guides were young and seemed to all be just starting out.  Ours had a great sense of humor and did a good job.  There was a lot to see – mostly the gently eroded walls and ceilings and some notable formations.  The color in the cave was gray – what you would expect from a mostly dry cave. 

It was interesting to see how this cave developed and the form it took.  It was a good tour to take – but when there are many steps and a fast pace, it is hard to see everything.  We enjoyed it and were glad we went.  Another cave on our bucket list!

MANITOU CLIFF DWELLINGS

These cliff dwellings were much more accessible than any others we have been too.  There were a lot of stairs to climb (I was a little slow due to the higher altitude) but once you got to the main level you could walk (stoop) through lots of doorways into many rooms.  The tiny rooms, the cliff itself, the common areas and storage areas were all right there to explore and touch.  The preservation and rehabilitation of this site was a tribute to the Ancient Anasazi who occupied this cliff.  The Native Americans who run it now have included two really excellent museums.

The only part that was a little awkward was the enormous gift shop.  Like the pueblo cliff dwellings, it had many levels, many stairs, and rooms that led into each other.  At one point, we didn’t think we could find our way out of the shop. 

The Cliff Dwellings were very close to Cave of the Winds and that made a perfect second stop for us.  It was definitely worth the entrance fee and all the stairs.  We have seen many ruins and cliff dwellings.  This one was the most accessible and we loved all the informative signs about the plants in the surrounding landscaping.  I liked learning about the centuries-old uses of these ancient plants that thrive and bloom today.  It was a really nice day for us.  Then we took Sunday off from sight-seeing and stayed home.  I got some laundry done; we ate breakfast at the Café in the campground and just took care of a few chores.

BOYD LAKE STATE PARK, LOVELAND

Our last stop in Colorado is Boyd Lake State Park in Loveland.  Doug made the decision to drive right through Denver instead of taking the toll road.  A toll road driving a large motorhome and towing a car is not just a few dollars for a toll.  It would have been about $64.  We went through during a lull in rush hour traffic but with the construction and the merging and still high speeds, I was pretty nervous.  Doug seems to have nerves of steel when he drives, and he successfully navigated through this big city.

This time we virtually waved to Sylvia and Dave who live in Denver.  We look forward to seeing them next fall.

One picturesque part of the trip was approaching Castle Rock.  You could see the giant rock formation right along the highway.  The cap rock on this butte is rhyolite – a rock that resists erosion.  The formation at the top of a mesa really resembles a castle.  Rhyolite is an igneous rock in which you can find stones that are treasured as gems like topaz.  58 million years ago a volcanic eruption covered this area, and in particular this butte, with 20 feet of rhyolite.  This kind of rock has tiny vugs – little gaps in the rock that have trapped gases.  The gases percolated over long periods of time leaving a hole.  It is inside these vugs where translucent sparkling crystals form.  It’s like a geode, but not encapsulated.  Now I want to go rhyolite hunting!

We pulled into Loop E in our campground at Boyd Lake State Park – just electricity, no water or sewer so set up was easy.  The park is grassy, and the lake is large and close by to our site.  The sites are not that long but we just fit our rig and car.   I had just finished the inside set up (pretty minimal when we are on the road) and it started to rain.  It has been overcast the last few days.  The thunderstorms passed us every night we were in Colorado Springs.  But the rain definitely has hit us now.  We are cozy in our home and the sound of the rain on the roof is pleasant.  We’ll just stay in today and relax.

Maybe tomorrow we will take advantage of a nice walk to the lake; take a picnic lunch and sit on the beach.  We do truly love beach sitting and we haven’t done that for a very long time.

We didn’t get to sit on the beach.  We walked over to the beach to check it out.  It was too wet, but it was a really nice walk.  The weather cleared by the end of the day.  We just relaxed which is a really nice thing to do, especially since we are on VACATION!

GERING, NEBRASKA

Left Colorado for a two-night stay in Gering, Nebraska.  We still had a view of the Rockies far away on our left.  The weather was sunny today after 3 days of rain and being overcast.  The drive was peaceful – this part of Nebraska has a lot of green pastures with some grazing cattle.  We drove for long distances and then saw the bluffs in the distance.  We saw a large two-dimensional metal sculpture of a bison on top of gentle hill.

We stopped at the Southeast Wyoming Visitor Center.  On our last visit there we loved the exhibits, but they are mostly closed due to COVID.  We were able to get lots of information about the art, architecture and natural landscaping that went into building this beautiful visitor center.

We entered Nebraska – welcomed by a sign that said, “the good life” and saw three turkeys wandering in the field.

We have been here before and stayed at this beautiful Robidoux RV Park again.  The sites are huge and grassy, level with concrete pads.  We did run into something weird.  Some of the sites here are head-to-head.  We had been assigned one of them.  We knew it wouldn’t work for us.  We aren’t sure we are going to unhitch the car and the only way out of that site would be to back up.  Also, there was a shared driveway next door and the truck in that site would have been blocked by our toad.  So, we asked for and got a pull-through. 

The weather is breezy and just the right temperature.  I smelled the lilac bush before I saw it.  Then, I took some photos of Scott’s Bluff from a loop in the campground.  This large rocky feature is 800 feet above the North Platte River and has been a landmark for everyone – Native Americans, people traveling on the Oregon, California and Mormon Trails and anyone driving down the nearby highway.  We visited up close last time we were here.

Scotts Bluff National Monument

We’ll spend a restful night here among the beautiful clouds enjoying the views.  Then on to South Dakota, our home state!

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Corn and more

I’ve heard that it’s good to start with a joke.  So here goes:  What do you call someone who only eats corn?  A cornivore!  Ha ha ha!  Sorry for the “corny” joke but I’ve been surrounded by so much corn on this latest segment of this trip that I had to make a joke about it.  Actually, I found out that all this corn is not going to be eaten by people – instead it’s feed corn and some will become ethanol.  There really is a lot of corn growing in this country – we drive for hours and you can’t look in any direction without seeing a million stalks.

View from our campsite – acres and acres of corn!

When we last blogged, we had just left Indiana and entered Sullivan, Illinois.  We took the advice of the campground host and went to the Broom Corn Festival in Arcola.  It was a fairly large street fair with lots of food and vendors and one large tent where we watched demonstrations of broom-making.  We saw a model of a broom house and a display of medal-winning brooms.  Arcola was a nice town.  The festival was great.  We talked to some local folks.  All in all, it, was a nice day and not too much corn.

Our next stop was the Kankakee KOA in Chebanese, Illinois.  We liked the city of Kankakee and it proved to be in a good location to check out some local attractions.

The B. Harley Bradley House in Kankakee, IL

On September 12th we checked out another Frank Lloyd Wright house.  We couldn’t tour the inside of it because there were no tours that day, but we walked around the building, looked in windows and walked down to the river adjacent to the property.  One of the most outstanding features of this house are the windows.  You can see in this photo the intricate leaded designs.  The geometric patterns are a hallmark of Wright’s.

Closeup of windows on this Frank Lloyd Wright designed house

The location of this house was right on the Kankakee River and it had its own small dock – also designed by Wright.  Walking on the lawn from the house to the dock you could imagine the Bradleys engaging in picnics and boat rides along this pretty river.

From the Kankadee campground we drove to a train station called the Metra and commuted into CHICAGO!  The train was a double-decker, impeccably clean and our trip to the city was hassle-free.  We headed straight to Millennium Park to take our photo at “The Bean” – the iconic Chicago sculpture formally known as Cloud Gate.  It reflects the sky and, of course, everyone has to have a photo of their distorted self image.  It was amazing to see it and we loved listening to all the visitors from all over the world.  It was another thrill for me to see Lake Michigan.  We walked through the park, stopped to listen to an outdoor concert and then walked over the pedestrian bridge to see the lake. It was a calm day and the boats and ships in the marina gently moved in the water.  Our photos don’t really do it all justice.  We walked over to the Crown Fountain and then along Michigan Avenue.  We ate lunch at Native Foods and kept on walking and walking back to our train station.  We put 5.3 miles on our feet that day and got to see one of America’s largest and beautiful cities.  Our train rides were relaxing and helped make the day a huge success.

The “Bean” in Chicago Millennium Park

Lake Michigan waterfront

Crown Fountain in Chicago

Our next campground was Rock Island KOA where we only stayed one night.  Then we entered our 31st state, Iowa.  Iowa – Fields of Opportunity!  More corn! We really felt that we were in the west again once we crossed the Mighty Mississippi.  The Newton KOA was near the Historic Valley Junction where we happened upon an Antique Car Show.  We also drove through Des Moines.  We stopped for a walk through the city park outside the capitol dome.  There we spent some time wandering through the lavender plantings and the Holocaust Memorial.  The next day, we drove over to Pella, a little town that truly celebrates its Dutch heritage.  Even the street signs have windmills on them.  We chose not to go through the reconstructed Dutch Village but instead walked around the historic downtown square.  I couldn’t resist buying some really yummy chocolate (in the shape of wooden shoes, tulips, and windmills).  The town of Pella was quaint and we learned about the history of its original Dutch citizens.  One of the best parts of the trip was talking to Jerry in the windmill-visitor center.  His family members were some of the original founders and listening to him talk about his neighbors and the good people they are was refreshing and heartening.  You don’t have to pay the admission fee to the Village to really enjoy the heart and soul of Pella – just be lucky enough to talk to Jerry.

The State Capitol building in Des Moines

A Windmill in Pella, IA (built just for the tourists!)

On September 19, we were in Nebraska at the Eugene T. “Bo” Mahoney State Park in Ashland.  It was a beautiful park but the rain kept us from doing much exploring there.  It was nice to be back in Nebraska.  This was the first state to be revisited on this trip, although we are in a different part of the state.

After three nights, we moved to Grand Island KOA.  There wasn’t much to do around Grand Island so we just hung out in the RV.  We have been traveling all along Route 80 – a pretty good road, but lots of wind and flat landscape.  The wind was pretty strong and, in fact, we saw a sign in the campground and heard the same joke repeated – “One day the wind stopped blowing in Nebraska and everyone fell over.”

We saw lots of signs for Fort Kearny and the city of Kearney.  I mentioned before that I grew up in Kearny, New Jersey and we lived near Kearny, Arizona, so it piqued my interest to see that extra “e”.  All these places are named after the same Philip Kearny who served in the Mexican American and Civil War.  It’s confusing to see the extra “e” in the city of Kearney and no extra “e” anywhere else.  Well, a postman who kept misspelling it is the reason for the discrepancy and apparently the citizens got used to the “e” and adopted the misspelling.  But the important trivia about Kearney, Nebraska is that it is the Sandhill Crane Capital of the World, as well as The Heart of Nebraska.  The celebrity of note here is still Buffalo Bill Cody.

Buffalo Bill was pretty popular in the North Platte area we next stayed in.  Our Holiday RV Park was within walking distance of the Fort Cody Museum/Gift Shop or as Doug puts it “Fort Tourist Trap”.  There was a pretty cool exhibit of hundreds of carved miniatures depicting the whole giant Wild West Show.  One man carved the figures – cowboys, Indians, horses, tents and everything else – and his wife painted them.  The sheer number of figures was impressive.

There is an interesting attraction in North Platte – the Bailey Rail Yard and Golden Spike Tower.  We took the elevator up to the top of the 8-floor tower to look out over the largest railroad yard.  The history of the yard includes Buffalo Bill who made his home base in North Platte because of the proximity of this railroad hub and the trains that took his Wild West Show all over the states. The yard is 2,850 acres and manages 10,000 railroad cars each day.  The yard contains two humps – the system that sorts the cars so they get attached to the right trains and arrive at the right destination.

The Golden Spike Tower in North Platte, NE

Union Pacific Bailey Yard – largest in the world!

We found out that North Platte, Nebraska was also the home Henry Hill relocated to.  You remember, Henry – in “Goodfellas”?  The real life New York City mobster worked in this middle America town as a cook.  It was also the home of Glen Miller.

This morning we left North Platte and drove across more of Route 80, now seeing gently rolling hills of ranch land instead of corn fields.  It was a longer than usual trip so we parked at Cabela’s flagship store for a short rest.  Out front was a memorial to the Pony Express.

We know we are in the west now.  The flat land has changed to sand-colored bluffs.  We saw a giant metal sculpture of a howling coyote and then on top of a bluff was a statue of a Native American carrying a spear and slumping on the back of his horse – Trails End.

Not trails end for us – we’ll be visiting Cheyenne this week.  And then on and on…our journey continues.

 

 

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The Road to Colorado

While I was in NJ, Doug visited Wind Cave National Park. I didn’t get to see the unusual formations known as boxwork but Doug enjoyed the mile and a half tour through the enormous caverns.  He took a 7 mile hike in the park (something he can’t do with me around) and saw the wildlife along the trail. Our RV home during this time was near Sturgis, so we were still right in the middle of the largest motorcycle rally in the country.

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Boxwork in Wind Cave

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Formations in Wind Cave

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View while hiking at Wind Cave National Park

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Chimney Rock, NE

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Scottsbluff National Monument, NE

When I got back, our next stop was in Gering, NE, the home of Teresa Scalon, a former Miss America.  Gering is right on the historic Oregon Trail and our campsite was in the city park.  It was great to have a beautiful site with incredible views – you just can’t beat living in a pretty park. The history of the Oregon Trail interested us so we stopped at a few historic markers that depicted significant moments in the lives and deaths of the pioneers who traveled this famous road.  There are still places where you can touch the original wagon wheel ruts.  We saw the wagon wheel memorial of a woman who died along the trail.  Most of the dead were in unmarked graves so their graves wouldn’t be disturbed.  The Oregon Trail is known as the longest graveyard in the nation, but it is also a testimony to the strength and perseverance of the 200,000 pioneers who took the chance to journey through the country.
We drove a short distance to see Chimney Rock National Monument and read about the history of the travelers that used this strangely shaped rock as a guidepost to orient themselves on the huge open plain they were moving through. On another day we went to Scott’s Bluff, a large formation which we could see from our campsite.  This was also a gathering place for the many adventurers who were moving west.  At these places the trails of Mormon handcarts, gold rush hopefuls, the Pony Express, the native nomadic tribes, farmers looking for the green fields of Oregon and many others crossed paths here.
Sometimes Doug and I take a break
from the great outdoors and on our 29th wedding anniversary we had a img_3196dinner and a movie date.  We ate a delicious Chinese dinner at the Tea Garden Restaurant.  We were a little unsure of the food we would experience when we saw the large sign outside advertising “Buy one spaghetti dinner; get one free.”  But the food was fresh and wonderful.  Then we saw “War Dogs.”  The movie was good but the theatre was strange and we were the only ones there.  The mall the theatre was in had only a few cars anywhere near it.

To give you an idea of the terrain we are traveling through let me share a few of the establishments we pass:

Bullwacker’s Saloon
Full Throttle Saloon (which advertised Red Ass Rhubarb Wine)
Dick and Jane’s Naughty Spot
Rush No More
Hamm’s Ammonite Ranch (I can’t imagine what roams here)
The Town of Interior, population on one sign 94; population on another sign 67
Used-a-Bit Second Hand Store
The Town of Melbeta, which means sweet beets, population 116 (the sugar beets are the largest crop here and production of sugar is the biggest industry other than cattle ranching)
Bit-O-Wyo Ranch
THAT’S WY!
sign2The towns are tiny, empty, but picturesque.  The scenery is beautiful – the homes on these ranges are modest and spread very far apart.  The blue skies have wispy clouds.  The ranges are green and gold rolling hills, with scattered, slowly spinning, three-armed giants.  It makes sense to have these windmills since the wind is wicked here.  But those windmills are the only things you see moving on this peaceful plain.

We don’t expect to visit this part of the country in the winter.  The snow must get massive here.  Every road we’ve been on has snow gates – these come down when the road is snow-covered and you have to turn back to wherever you started from.  No signs to use chains, no attempts at snow plowing – just close the roads.

img_3201 img_3205-1Our beautiful home for this leg of the trip was Curt Gowdy State Park.  I was under the mistaken notion that Curt Gowdy was a cowboy (he was a local guy who became a national figure as a sportscaster) but the old west cowboy feeling prevailed any way.  The park is located exactly midway between Cheyenne and Laramie.  Our site was very pretty and the whole park is just a wonderful area to explore.  The visitor center/museum is spectacular – with modern and historic displays.  It’s hard not to contrast the magnificent visitor centers out west with the dinky little stops we’ve been in along the east coast.  These places are destination in themselves.

We spent a day exploring Cheyenne and got a flavor of the old west town it was.  The modern day Cheyenne is a thriving big city with a respectful look-back at it’s colorful past.  We spent a few hours at the State Museum which was a free and interesting way to understand the history and charm of Cheyenne.  We happened to be there on they day they dedicated the new addition to city hall.  The old, beautifully domed building will have lots more space added to it.

The next day we went in the opposite direction to check out Laramie.  This was Women’s Equality Day, August 26th. Bella Abzug, the Democratic Representative of New York, got Congress to approve this holiday to commemorate the 19th Amendment which (finally!!) gave women the right to vote.  We were happy we were spending it in the Equality State of Wyoming.  The first legal vote by a woman happened in Cheyenne.

Now Laramie is a beautiful town.  We happened to be there during its weekly farmer’s market.  A robust event compared to some of the tiny markets we’ve been too.  We walked around town looking at the murals and stopped for Thai take-out that met our discriminating tastebuds’ needs.

Driving around this area you can see that the cattle ranchers won their battles against the sheep herders.  The ranches are faintly outlined by barbed-wire fences.  Not much left of herds of sheep.  The only litter you see here are occasional piles of rusty farm equipment and old trucks.  I love the fields and fields of sunflowers and the black-eyed susans all along the roadways.

We had to leave lovely Curt Gowdy State Park and then spent a night at Terry Bison Ranch.  This RV “Park” was a stark difference – with tiny sites and some really tacky fake old west facades on the buildings.  One night was plenty here.

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Family of deer at our Horsetooth Reservoir campsite

And then we arrived at Horsetooth Reservoir – our huge site overlooked the pretty reservoir and the mountains surrounding it.  The town right outside of our site was called Stout and the population sign read 47½.  We used this site to travel one day to Fort Collins and had an interesting lunch at the Fo-Co.  This is a community restaurant that has no cashier and is staffed only with volunteers.  The food was great – we had a fresh cucumber salad and I had the spicy tomato soup and Doug had a good ratatouille, which and we topped this off with yummy almond cakes.  The deal here is that you pay what you think the food is worth or what you can afford.  If you can’t afford to pay, you go to work in the kitchen or serving to cover the cost of your lunch.  There is also a Freedge outside – a refrigerator with excess produce that anyone who can use it can take.  We enjoyed this place and even had an interesting conversation with some local men who were engrossed in talking about “A Tree Grows in Brooklyn.”  It was cool to meet Brooklynites in Fort Collins.

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Rocky Mountain National Park

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Rocky Mountain National Park

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Rocky Mountain National Park

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Proof we made it to this altitude!

The highlight of our stay in Horsetooth was our trip to Rocky Mountain National Park.  As Doug drove up the long high road through the Estes Park entrance I drank lots of water and took some prophylactic doses of Advil.  I have had problems with altitude sickness in the past and was already having some shortness of breath and headaches while we were only at 5 or 6,000 feet.  So I was a little nervous going to over 12,000 feet.  But I did it and even was able to walk around and explore some short trails.  We ate our picnic lunch at the Alpine Lodge area at over 11,000 feet.  We sat looking out at a glacial cirque – a circular bowl formation formed a long time ago by the pressures and movement of a glacier.  The mountains are enormous, the tundra we walked through was incredible and I loved every breathless moment of this experience.  The day before we left this area we explored Estes Park, a cute little town with a really nice park and farmer’s market.

Our next stop was at the Limon KOA – not a place we would recommend.  But it was only for two nights.

 

Now we are in John Martin State Park.  Our views of the lake and reservoir are just lovely and our site is the biggest we’ve been in yet.  To get here, we had to turn our backs on the magnificent Rocky Mountains and we anticipated (and drove endlessly through) mile after mile of virtually nothing on the horizon.  Finding a place as lovely as this makes those miles worthwhile.  We are going to have a picnic lunch on the little beach today and spend our three days here relaxing.  Well, it will be relaxing if the weather holds up.  We had really high winds last night which rocked the RV and kept both of us up.  Today is just beautiful but we are watching out for the dangerous thunderstorms that plague this area and hopefully will not have more of those treacherous winds.  For now we are sitting outside in 80 degrees with bright sun and a little breeze.

 

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