Category Archives: Missouri

Discoveries in History – More of Illinois and St. Louis

We’ve been traveling along the route taken by the Corps of Discovery in 1805-1806.  While we haven’t traveled it in the same order that Lewis and Clark did, their history has been part of our experience.  We saw where Sergeant Floyd died from appendicitis.  We touched William Clark’s signature etched in the stone of Pompey’s Pillar.  We spent a day at Traveler’s Rest in Montana where we walked along the Bitterroot River and saw the campsite the Corps camped in exactly 200 years before our visit.  We recently were at Brennan’s Wave on the Clark Fork in Missoula, saw a memorial bridge across the Missouri River in Chamberlain, South Dakota.  And, of course, we lived this past summer on the banks of the Snake River close to the city of Pasco where Lewis and Clark first saw the confluence of the Snake and Columbia Rivers.

And now, we saw the Gateway Arch in St. Louis, Missouri.  The Arch was built to commemorate the westward expansion of the United States made possible by Lewis and Clark.

We were technically still in Illinois – staying as close to St. Louis as we could get in our RV.  And our first full day in Granite City, Illinois, we drove a few miles to see the Departure Point.  This was the campsite of Lewis and Clark at River Dubois.  There is a great museum there complete with a life-size replica of the “keeled” boat as well as the piroques used by the Corps for the first part of their river journey.

We went on a guided ranger tour to see a replica of the fort on the river – the rebuilt rustic buildings formed a small but efficient military-style post where the expedition gathered as a unit before departure.

While in that area, we took a guided tour of the Melvin Price Locks and Dam, built by the Army Corps of Engineers.  We can’t help but compare all locks and dams to OUR Ice Harbor Lock and Dam.  This dam is on the muddy Mississippi and the barge and ship traffic is much heavier then on the Snake River.  But “our” dam stands a proud 100 feet high and traffic through that lock navigate the full 100 feet while the Melvin Price lock is only a few feet high – actually only 8 inches while we were there.  But it was a thrill to see a tug push fifteen barges through the lock all at once.

A 15 barge tow entering the lock

It barely fits!

We didn’t waste any more time getting to the Arch.  The next day, Monday, October 22, we drove to a Metro Link station to commute into the city.  After a short ride, we walked to the Arch where we bought tickets for the movie, depicting the construction and history of the Arch, and tickets for the tram ride to the top.  We didn’t get tickets for the boat ride on the Mississippi River right below the Arch – we saved that for another time.  The movie was really interesting and was a good start to our visit.  The tram ride was great!  It is a very well organized attraction, obviously ready for huge crowds.  So while we waited for our tram, we took the time to wander through the museum.  It was also well organized – with separate halls showing us the construction, the history of St. Louis, and lots more.

The Gateway Arch on the Mississippi River

For the architects and mathematicians!

Then it was time for our tram.  We waited at our station for only a few minutes before a guide led us into the pretty tight space we all had to maneuver to enter the tram cars.  For those with walking issues beware – there are lots of narrow steps (which you share with many others) and then you walk a bit of a distance.  Then there is the tram car.  Picture a ferris wheel car – only it is completely enclosed.  The only “window” is the tiny glass elevator door through which you enter.  This door is 4 feet high.  So you walk up a little step, bend down and squeeze into the car which you are sharing with four other people.  The best way to handle this is to smile at each other and not mind that all ten of your knees are touching and if you are an adult your head is probably hitting the curved ceiling of the car.  You only get to look out of the car for part of the upward journey and then all you see are the endless narrow winding stairs you will have to walk down if the tram mechanism fails.  Otherwise there is nothing to see.  Until you get to the top.  Then you have to get out of the cramped car and squish past everyone waiting to get back on the car while you share the very narrow stair case up more steps to the viewing room.  We were there on a day without the usual crowds – only one tram was operating, but we were still shoulder to shoulder with plenty of other tourists.  Even so the viewing area was pretty pleasant and in a minute or so you could get next to a window to see the spectacular views.  The Mississippi River side is just as amazing as the St. Louis city side.  You could stay up there as long as you wanted – and we made sure we got our fill of a view we might not see again.  After understanding the construction and being told that a little sway in the arch is common, we thoroughly enjoyed our time in the world’s tallest arch at 630 feet high and the tallest human-made monument in the Western Hemisphere.  Another item to check off our bucket list!

View of St. Louis from the top of the arch

We walked through the downtown area of St. Louis to get to Sen, our destination for a Thai lunch – excellent!  And then cut through City Garden to see the sculptures as we walked back to our Metro Link stop.  A great day in St. Louis!

One of the sculptures in the City Park

Cahokia Mounds in Illinois, not far from our campground, was a step back into history – way before Lewis and Clark.  This site was amazing.  In 1250 CE, Cahokia was larger than London was at that time.  It was one of the greatest cities of the world covering (now) about 3.5 square miles with about 80 mounds.  The pre-Columbian Native Americans lived in the plazas amidst the giant mounds – peacefully tending crops and existing in family units.  At the height of its population, there were between 10,200 and 15,300 people living in this beautiful place.

The mounds are huge, especially when you consider that the earth was moved from nearby pits in woven baskets and then piled onto the massive platforms.    The largest of the mounds, Monks Mound, has four terraces and is ten stories high and is bigger than the largest pyramid in Egypt.  A few of the mounds are burial tombs but most of them are simply earthen ceremonial embankments.  This is truly a sight to see and now we want to visit other mounds around the country.

Monk’s Mound

We couldn’t resist one more day exploring St. Louis.  After a very good vegetarian lunch at Frida’s, we headed to Delmar Loop.  As we walked the main street we read the embedded stars in the Walk of Fame, noting the many famous people who call St. Louis home.  We took our photos with the statue of Chuck Berry.  We gave in to our cravings and stopped at Piccione Pastry Shop.  Doug’s ricotta cheesecake and my chocolate chip cannolli were worth every calorie!

Hanging out with Chuck Berry

We had another day to be explorers so we drove over to the Anheuser-Busch Brewery for one of their tours.  We took the General Tour since we weren’t interested in becoming brewers ourselves and it was free.  We weren’t prepared for the big crowds and almost had to wait 2.5 hours for the tour.  But then this nice woman gave us 2 extra tickets for the next tour.  Doug wasn’t very complimentary about this tour.  It was mostly walking outside between the massive, old red brick buildings in a group of about 40 people.  The tour guide spoke quickly into a microphone with no real interest in interacting with her audience.  In between the long walks (in the cold rain) we stopped at a few places to hear some information that was garbled into the mike.  So Doug’s comments are well taken, but I enjoyed the tour – the buildings were beautiful; we got to see a Clydesdale Horse getting a bath!; the interior of the brewery was beautiful with creamy ivory-colored intricate wrought iron and large portraits under grand chandeliers.  At one of the stops you are offered a sample (Bud or Bud Light).  Neither of us drink any more and Doug’s gluten issue is not compatible with beer, but I always liked the first sip or two of a nice cold beer so while Doug didn’t take any, I asked for a small “sip”.  Everyone else got a filled-to-the-top 4 oz. glass of beer.  I got a 3.5 oz glass – of which I took 3 sips.  As we passed through to the next stop, my almost-filled cup was one of only a couple that had any liquid left in it.  At the end of the tour, we were invited to turn in our stamped tickets to get another sample.  I found the lady who gave us her extra tickets and gave her our tickets for two samples.  She and her husband were happy to get them.  Everyone (crowds and crowds) were walking through the exhibits and gift shop with large glasses of beer.  I guess we are truly out of touch.

A Clydesdale getting a bath

I took some time to take advantage of a good laundry at our St. Louis KOA and we spent a few quiet days in the RV, while the damp, cold fall weather rolled around us outside.  We checked the forecast and found that a windstorm was heading our way on the Sunday we were planning to leave Granite City.  We changed plans and just stayed put that day.  Leaving one day late was fine with us and we didn’t have to struggle with high winds on the highway.  That left us only spending one night at Lincoln City State Park in Indiana.

This was a beautiful park – with lots of trees in fall colors and a pretty site.  It had the added attraction of being right next to Lincoln’s Boyhood Home Memorial Park.  We barely parked the rig before we headed over to the memorial park.  We were too late for the visitor center and museum but it was the perfect time of day to wander through the forest, crunching on yellow leaves and walking the Trail of Stones.  Along this pretty half-mile path are stones from homes and sites from Lincoln’s life.  We saw the rebuilt wooden cabin and farm buildings as well as the acres where crops grew during the time Thomas Lincoln made this farm his family home.

Site of the Lincoln Boyhood Home

We got up early the next day to see the visitor center and its museum exhibits.  We feel like we have gotten to know the man Abraham Lincoln was rather than the legend.  Seeing his humble beginnings, learning about his love of reading and his family values, we now have a truer picture of his greatness.  We hope to get to his birthplace in Kentucky.

The Lincoln Museum in Indiana

But our main reason for our next stop is Mammoth Caves!  The largest cave system – and one we have been wanting to see.  Kentucky – Land of the Unbridled Spirit – here we come!  Another new state for us!

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Our 14th State – Arkansas

Arkansas is the first state on this trip that I have not seen before.  It’s our 14th state – it seems like yesterday we were in Las Vegas just starting this journey.  So far Arkansas has been rainy and foggy but between the mists of fog we saw the beautiful Ozark Mountains with lots of green and some spots of leaves changing colors.

Jersey Nights – the second show we saw in Branson – was great.  The cast took turns with Frankie Valli’s falsetto.  This show had lots of dancing and they sang songs from the Ronettes, the Crystals, and the Temptations as well as concentrating on the classic Four Seasons hits.  We agree that the Beatles show was better musically but the energy on stage from this one was great.

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On our last day in Branson we hopped on the free Downtown Trolley to get a tour through 13 stops in the heart of Branson.  We shopped at Dick’s 5 & 10 where the prices really were low.  We ate lunch at a Greek Restaurant and then strolled back through Branson Landing to our car.  We thoroughly enjoyed this part of our trip.  Missouri was a fun state to visit.

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Dick’s 5 & 10 in Branson

We drove a little bit longer yesterday than our usual 60 miles.  It was about 160 miles, much of it on narrow curving roads, some of it through small towns with lots of construction.  The construction cones make fitting our wide RV on the road even trickier but Doug managed just fine.  We took a short break at a picnic rest stop which helped a little.  Along the way we passed Toad Suck Park which is now our favorite-named park.  We crossed the Arkansas River and I was surprised by its width.  I’m used to the rivers in the west which are narrow and sometimes run dry.  This is a huge river.  We also have come down in the world – with an elevation of less than 400 feet.  Not quite sea level but getting closer.

Arkansas River

Arkansas River

Our four nights in Arkansas are also filled with attractions we have always wanted to see so we’ll keep busy in this state too.

We love this – seeing the country, touring its sights and living this life on the road.  Wish you could all be with us!

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Enjoying Missouri

We had a nice three day stay in the Springfield KOA which was right off Route 66.  I appreciate that they had a really great laundry room.  Even though it was a large campground and the sites were mostly full, the laundry was empty both times I went.  Six big and clean washers and plenty of dryers, including the giant industrial ones that dry two loads in 30 minutes and they were all mine.  Another added benefit was a long counter top to fold my clothes while I was watching the continually running video on Route 66.  I’ve seen parts of this video before but it was fun to watch the guy travel from Chicago to the Pacific Coast on the “Mother Road.”  My fascination with Route 66 goes back to reading the Grapes of Wrath and then traveling through Arizona around Flagstaff and through New Mexico, I have seen many parts of the road.  We saw the end of it on the Santa Monica Pier.  And this part through Missouri is the farthest east I’ve seen of it.  So the video captures the little towns and strange attractions I’ve missed.

On Saturday, October 8, we started the day at a Farmer’s Market in Springfield.  It was one of the best we’ve seen with tons of beautiful produce.  We bought greens, apples, cucumbers and our favorite roasted chili peppers.

We spent the afternoon at the Wilson’s Creek Battlefield.  Civil War sites are now occupying our curiosity.  We long ago left the Lewis and Clark sites so it is interesting for us to turn our attention to learning about the Civil War.  In all the reading I’ve done on this war and all the sites we saw along the East Coast, I never read or heard anything about the struggles and battles in this part of the country.  Missouri saw some of the first and bloodiest battles.  Missouri’s population was divided with some slave holders and some anti-slavery residents.  This particular battlefield was preserved as a National Battlefield and the volunteers and rangers staffing the fields, the buildings and the visitor center knew the battle well.  We learned the specifics of the battle while sitting on the porch of a farmer who watched the battle.  His large family hid in the basement during the morning of the bloody battle and then emerged to find their house turned into a hospital.  We walked through the woods and drove along the road reading the guide and reliving the battle.  This was an eye-opening experience.

Ray House at Wilson's Creek National Battlefield

Ray House at Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield

Bloody Hill at Wilson's Creek National Battlefield

Bloody Hill at Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield

At Wilson's Creek National Battlefield

At Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield

We left Springfield on Sunday.  We are now seeing a small part of the Ozark Mountains.  The trees are just starting to change colors.  These are very different mountains from the West – softly rounded and completely covered by trees.  It was undeniable that we were in Christian country along the drive towards Branson.  We passed the Creation Museum and in Christian County it was no surprise to see many huge churches.  We read that in this county was the smallest cathedral in the world – I looked for it but maybe it was too small to see it.   After reading a sign, I spent some time wondering what you do at a weekly Poultry Swap.  Do you get rid of chickens you don’t like?  Do you try to pan off to your neighbors the nasty chicken causing all the trouble in your coop?  And how can you and your neighbors sustain this stuff on a weekly basis?

On Sunday afternoon we arrived at Table Rock State Park.  It’s beautiful here – large level spaces within a short walking distance of Table Rock Lake. We checked it all out yesterday morning and wandered through the enormous marina here.

Before we pulled into this campground we killed some time parked near a Branson Visitor Center.  We went in to find out about the shows in Branson.  There are hundreds of them and many we want to see.  We talked to a salesperson at the Visitor Center desk who showed us the ropes.  She worked for Wyndham Resorts and explained to us how we could get a really (really, really) good price on tickets.  So we picked out two shows and then she suggested that if we went to a time-share presentation we could pay $20 for both of us to see two shows.  We weighed this – 3 hours of sales pressure for something we have no interest in versus saving $130.  (We know we wouldn’t ever have to pay the full $78 per ticket price – there are other ways to get discounts but this was the deal in front of us.)  So we agreed.  The presentation yesterday was pleasant and professional with no hard arm-twisting.  We toured their local properties, spoke to a couple of sales people, and then left with cash in hand and tickets to our shows.  It wasn’t our favorite 3 hours but seeing these shows for $5 was a good deal.  And you never know – a time-share like this might someday (10 to 15 years from now) be the right thing for us.

Last night we thoroughly enjoyed Liverpool Legends – a tribute Beatles band.  They nailed the sound perfectly, changed sets and costumes that matched the era of the songs.  It was a great show – all my favorite songs.  The audience was invited to sing along and even rush the stage.  Couples slow-danced and we waved peace signs.  Lots of fun (and only cost us $10!).  We spent the afternoon along Branson Landing – a shopping area with a light and water show.  We ate a quick dinner at Qdoba.  It was a perfect day – lovely weather!

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Liverpool Legend’s show at the Caravelle Theater, Branson, MO

Branson Landing

Branson Landing

Branson Landing

Branson Landing

Tonight we see Jersey Nights – a Four Seasons tribute.  I’m hoping it’s as good as last night’s show.  We’re having a rainy day so we may just stay at our site until it’s time to leave.

njn

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Oklahoma to Missouri

We left the lovely Grand Lake o’ the Cherokees on Monday, October 3rd and headed over the border to Missouri, our 13th state since we started driving the RV in January. In Cedar Oaks RV Park we had a view of this pretty lake and watched Canadian and Snow Geese enjoy their time on the lake. As we pulled out, a large flock of seagulls swarmed overhead to wish us well on our journey. Now we are in Camp Mi Casa. It’s a very nice park but no view of water.

Our campsite neighbors, Surita and Gene from Texas, suggested some fun things to do in Carthage, Joplin and Branson. One of the best parts of this kind of traveling is meeting friendly, helpful fellow-travelers who enthusiastically share their experiences. These conversations from more seasoned RVers give us insights and information that makes our driving safer and our stops more enjoyable. Sometimes our current life seems a bit isolated. And, although Doug and I provide enough interactions to fill our days, it is nice to converse with others once in a while.

We don’t often mention the weather conditions, but now that we are in the early Fall we are starting to look forward to a season that really didn’t happen in Tucson. In the hot dry desert, the summer heat continues into October and there isn’t much in the way of flora that changes colors. In fact, the only thing that really changed was our ocotillo – its tiny leaves would turn a brownish-orange and then drop off. Otherwise, the cacti don’t change and the mesquite, palo verde and ironwood trees eventually drop their green leaves in the winter, almost immediately before the new spring growth starts to appear in late February.

Doug and I both grew up on the East Coast where the crisp Fall air and pretty leaf colors were a welcome change from the hot humid summer. Although we have spent the past spring and summer in more northern states, we have experienced a heat wave. It was very hot all through the spring which was spent in Northern California and along the Pacific Coast. Then the summer months were unusually warm in Montana and Wyoming. The only exception was one cold, rainy day in Glacier National Park. As we moved south and east through South Dakota, Nebraska and Colorado we stayed in our shorts and carried water bottles everywhere. Texas and Oklahoma also had higher than normal temperatures. It is only the last few days that the air at night takes on a little bit of a chill. So now that it is October and we are in Missouri we can see that the trees are just starting to change. This will be the first real Fall for us in about 20 years.

While in Grove, OK, we visited the Har-Ber Village “museum” described as “a pioneer-era village and history museum located on the shores of Grand Lake o’ the Cherokees in Oklahoma.”  The museum consisted of a outdoor walk through the spacious grounds with over 100 different places to visit.  Log cabins, doll collections, blacksmith shop,  a church, fashion exhibits, glassware and dishes, soap making, a jail, doctor and dentist offices, a courthouse  just to name a few. They were all done mostly in the period of late 1800’s.  It took a few hours to wander through everything and it was well worth the time!

Har-ber Village

Har-ber Village

Har-ber Village Doll Collection

Har-ber Village Doll Collection

Honey Baby doll at Har-ber Village

Honey Baby doll at Har-ber Village

We looked at all the literature we were given at the Missouri Welcome Center and figured out how to fit it all in the two days we plan to stay here. As is our tradition on the first night in new state, we added Missouri to our state map. It is filling up fast!

Our state map

Our state map

You can also go here to view our online state map:

States visited

We decided to visit the George Washington Carver National Monument on October 4th. We watched a video on Carver’s life and then went through an extensive museum archiving his life. He was a gentle and brilliant man with much humility and decency. Walking through the woods where he played and learned as a small boy was serene. It was beautiful to spend the day getting to know this inspirational man.

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George Washington Carver as a boy

George Washington Carver as a boy

George Washington Carver Bust

George Washington Carver

The next day we drove into Downtown Joplin. The plan was to use the Visitor’s Map to walk around seeing the murals and public art. The first one we saw was the best one. It was the word Joplin on small photos of locals holding a blackboard with words defining themselves. It was so well done, it made me eager to see more. Well, the map was all screwed up and we walked a lot but only saw a few murals. One was in City Hall – the Heartstrings Mural – the city employees placed strings from Joplin to their hometowns resulting in a very different kind of mural. I was pretty excited to see the Route 66 Park murals. But the “park” was a bit disappointing. Two murals and one large vinyl record on the ground that said: Get your kicks on Rt. 66. It was a lot of walking for just a few murals. But we don’t give up easily. We drove a few miles to the other side of Joplin in search of what looked on the map to be a giant collaged ampersand. It turned out to be about 3 feet tall and we didn’t even feel the need to drive up close to it to take a photo. So our day in Joplin was not all that exciting.

Part of a mural in downtown Joplin

Part of  the Joplin mural

Route 66 mural in Joplin, MO

Route 66 mural in Joplin, MO

Route 66 mural in Joplin, MO

Route 66 mural in Joplin, MO

Tomorrow we get on the road again. Our next campground will be on Route 66 – The Mother Road – Springfield KOA.

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